Ankang is in Shaanxi, in Northwest China.
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Shaanxi · City Guide
Ankang, Upstream of Beijing's Drinking Water.
Overview
Why Go
The central route of the south-to-north water transfer draws from the Han River, and all of Ankang sits in that catchment. The prefecture runs under strict discharge and industry limits so that water stays clean.
At Xunyang the river loops almost completely around the old town and back, so from the hill above the town and its bend read as the two halves of a taiji diagram. It is a real landform, not a sculpture.
Ziyang County's soil is unusually high in selenium and the tea grown on it carries that, which is what the county sells. The gardens are cut into very steep slopes above the river and picked from late March.
A gilt bronze silkworm from the Han dynasty was dug up at Shiquan in 1984, evidence of how early and how seriously silk was worked this far inland. The original is in Xi'an; Shiquan shows the story.
Han Diao Erhuang, the opera of this river valley, carries one of the two tune systems that Peking opera was later built on. It is still performed locally and the connection is documented, not claimed.
See
The old town sits on a peninsula the river almost closes, with a hilltop viewpoint that shows the whole loop, plus a Ming pagoda and old lanes below. Half a day, and go up the hill at the start.
Tea cut into slopes steep enough that everything is carried by hand, above the river in Ziyang County. Picking runs from late March into May and growers sell and roast on the spot. Half a day.
The reservoir behind the Ankang dam, with wooded islands, boat routes and orange groves on the shores. It is the city's day out and the boats run much of the year. Half a day.
A forested peak of volcanic origin in Langao County with rock outcrops, old woodland and a small summit temple. Cool in summer and steep throughout. A full day.
A narrow gorge in Zhenping County with layered rock walls, clear water and plank paths along the stream, in the least developed corner of the prefecture. A full day including the drive.
On the Map
Approximate locations of the attractions above, across Ankang.
Eat
Green tea from the steep Ziyang terraces, picked early and fired locally. The county sells it on the selenium content of the soil, and the leaf is small and the season short because of the altitude.
Wheat batter steamed into a sheet, cut into ribbons and dressed hot with vinegar, garlic water and chilli oil. It is the city's breakfast and the vinegar is heavier than in the Hanzhong rice version.
Chicken, trotter, meatballs and vegetables layered into one basin and steamed for hours over water so the broth stays clear. It is the new year dish of the river counties and feeds a whole table.
Fish from the river and the reservoir, usually stewed in a clear broth with pickled greens rather than braised in soy. The water quality is the local selling point and the restaurants say so at the start.
Do
The loop just resolves from height, so go up the hill above Xunyang before walking the streets. Late afternoon puts the light along the river rather than across it.
Gardens in Ziyang take visitors during the spring picking and will show the firing afterwards. The slopes are steep enough that the work itself is the lesson.
Boats run out to the islands and the orange groves from the main pier. It is the easiest way to see how completely this prefecture is organised around one river.
Troupes play at festivals and at the culture centre rather than nightly. Ask locally. Listening to it after hearing Peking opera makes the family resemblance obvious.
When
Warm and green with the tea picking on and the river clear. The strongest window of the year.
Hot, very humid and the flood season, with heavy rain closing mountain roads. Nangong Mountain and the gorges are the cool options.
Dry, mild and clear with oranges coming in around the reservoir. The other good window and the quietest.
Cool and damp rather than cold, with mist on the river many mornings. The new year steaming basin is the reason to be here in winter.
Explore More
Ankang is in Shaanxi, in Northwest China.
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