Everyday Leisure: Board Games, Cards and Street Games

Chinese chess on a stone table with a crowd around it, card games that change name every province, and the lane games that come back out at New Year.

31 of these, grouped by region. The first line of each entry says whether you can take part or only watch; the last column gives the hours, the cost where there is one, and how much Chinese it takes. Or see all seven kinds.

North China (华北)

What Where When and what it takes
WatchingBeijing Park Board & Card Games (北京公园棋牌)Tiantan, Zizhuyuan and Taoranting all have their regular boards. The rule about watching in silence is quoted often and kept rarely. Beijing All year, 9 to 11:30am and 2 to 5pm
Free in the park, 5 to 15 yuan an hour in a card room
Some Chinese helps
WatchingTianjin Park Board & Card Games (天津公园棋牌)Shuishang, Renmin and Beining parks, where Tianjin’s reputation for talk gets its daily workout around the Chinese chess boards. Tianjin All year, morning and afternoon
Free
Some Chinese helps

Northeast China (东北)

What Where When and what it takes
WatchingPark Board & Card Games (公园棋牌(象棋/麻将/扑克))Retired men set boards out under the pavilions and the trees, Chinese chess mostly, with cards alongside. The crowd around a good game is half the point, and in the northeast it does not stay quiet. Heilongjiang All year, 9 to 11am and 2 to 5pm; busiest in summer
Free in the park, 5 to 15 yuan an hour in a card room
Some Chinese helps
WatchingPark Board & Card Games (Changchun/Jilin) (公园棋牌(长春/吉林市))The same scene in Changchun and Jilin city: People’s Square, Nanhu park, Beishan and the riverside. Onlookers get louder than the players, which is the entertainment. Jilin All year, morning and afternoon, busiest in summer
Free
Some Chinese helps
WatchingLiaoning Park Board Games & Choir (辽宁公园棋牌与合唱)Boards, card tables and choirs share the parks in Shenyang, Dalian and Anshan, with the singing carrying across from the next clearing. Liaoning All year, morning and afternoon
Free
Some Chinese helps

East China (华东)

What Where When and what it takes
You can join inAnhui Local Mahjong (安徽地方麻将)Each Anhui city plays its own mahjong: Huainan allows some melds and not others, Ma’anshan makes you drop a suit, Anqing has its own again. Anhui Afternoon into the evening, busiest at weekends
10 to 30 yuan a table with tea
Some Chinese helps
WatchingChess & Cards Corner in Xinghua Park (杏花公园林下棋牌角)The tree-shaded corner of Xinghua park in Hefei, where the boards and card tables are. Bring your own set if you want to play. Anhui 9 to 11:30am and 2 to 5pm on dry days
Free
Some Chinese helps
You can join inGuandan / “Throw Eggs” Poker (掼蛋)Guandan has crossed into Anhui and is played the same way, four in pairs, usually in a card room with tea included. You need someone to make up the table. Anhui Weekend afternoons and after meals, all year
30 to 80 yuan a head in a private room
Some Chinese helps
You can join inMinnan Teahouse Chess & Cards Social (闽南茶馆棋牌社交)In southern Fujian the card game happens in a teahouse room with the tea running: dou dizhu and thirteen cards mostly. You need a group and some Chinese. Fujian Afternoon into the evening, busiest at weekends
30 to 80 yuan a head
Needs the local dialect
You can join inGuandan (掼蛋)Guandan came out of Huai’an and has become the thing Jiangsu does before dinner: two decks, four players in pairs, and a bomb thrown down hard enough to make the name. The rules can be shown rather than explained. Jiangsu Before meals, around 11 to noon and 5 to 6; all day at weekends
Tea 20 to 50 yuan a head
No Chinese needed
You can join inMahjong in Jiangsu (麻将)Every part of Jiangsu plays a slightly different mahjong, Nanjing and Suzhou each with their own wildcards. Usually you need someone to bring you in. The social game only. Jiangsu Mostly 1 to 5pm, evenings too, all day at weekends
10 to 30 yuan an hour with tea
Some Chinese helps
WatchingShandong Park Board Games & Choir (山东公园棋牌/合唱)Jinan’s parks run boards, cards and choirs together, at a volume the province is known for. Shandong All year, morning and afternoon
Free
Some Chinese helps
You can join inWeifang Kite (潍坊风筝)Weifang has made kites for a very long time and holds the national heritage listing for them. In spring the squares and the hill outside town fill with them, and workshops will teach you to build one. Shandong Spring, March to May; the kite festival runs from 20 April
Free to fly; kites 10 to 100 yuan
No Chinese needed
You can join inShanghai Alley “Nine Games” Jiuzi Youxi (上海弄堂九子游戏)Nine old lane games brought back out: marbles, hoop rolling, shuttlecock, jacks, hopscotch, diabolo, card flipping, tile throwing and elastic skipping. Shanghai The Yuyuan Road games meeting runs yearly, and neighbourhoods hold them at New Year
Free
No Chinese needed
You can join inShanghai Alley Mahjong (上海弄堂麻将)Mahjong in the lane mouths and front rooms is one of the ways Shanghai keeps its neighbourhoods talking. Shanghai rules have their own wildcards. Usually you need to be brought in. Shanghai Mostly 1 to 5pm, evenings too, all day at weekends
10 to 25 yuan an hour with tea
Some Chinese helps
You can join inShanghai Uncle’s Kanglo Ball (上海爷叔康乐球)Carrom, played by flicking discs with a finger, has been a Shanghai lane game for generations. Ronnie O’Sullivan played a few frames with the uncles at Siming Village in 2024 and got coached through it. Shanghai Afternoon into early evening, tables out in the lane in good weather
Free
No Chinese needed
You can join inShanghai Uncles Chess & Cards (上海爷叔下棋/打牌)Chinese chess mostly, with go and the Western game around as well, played in the green corners and lane mouths. The club on Yanping Road is the fixed address. No language needed. Shanghai 1 to 5pm, outdoors in good weather
Free
No Chinese needed
You can join inHangzhou Park Card Games (杭州公园打牌)Hangzhou’s lakeside parks fill up with card players after lunch, a few hundred of them under the trees at Liu Park alone. Watching is free; joining means asking, and a table needs four. Zhejiang After midday until 5pm, busier at weekends
Free
Some Chinese helps

Central China (华中)

What Where When and what it takes
You can join inChinese Chess (中国象棋)The river between the two sides of a Chinese chess board is named after a real one in Henan, which makes the province a reasonable place to learn the game. Wait for the current game to finish before asking to play. Henan All day, heaviest after lunch; late into summer evenings
Free
No Chinese needed
You can join inHeluo Temple Fair Folk Games (河洛文化庙会民俗游戏)A temple fair in Luoyang that keeps the old games going: diabolo, whip-top contests, two-demons wrestling danced by one person, sedan chairs, a sixteen-arm swing and lantern riddles. Henan The first seven days of the lunar new year
Ticket plus spending, 50 to 100 yuan
Some Chinese helps
You can join inMahjong (社区茶馆+麻将)Community teahouses in old Zhengzhou and Luoyang keep mahjong tables at the back. Playing for money is illegal in China; what is described here is the social game. Henan 1pm until late, all day at weekends
5 to 50 yuan
Some Chinese helps
You can join inShuangsheng / Tractor Poker (双升扑克(拖拉机))Shuangsheng is Henan’s card game: four players in two pairs, two decks, 108 cards. State firms run inter-company tournaments for it, and the provincial asset commission holds an annual cup. Henan Afternoon into the evening; all day at weekends
Free, bring your own cards
Some Chinese helps
WatchingHubei Flower Cards “Shangdaren (湖北花牌”上大人”)Long paper cards printed with phrases from an old children’s primer, played in western Hubei and almost nowhere else. Yichang puts it alongside table tennis and Chinese chess at the seniors’ games. Hubei Afternoons and evenings, mostly older players
Free
Needs the local dialect
You can join inWuhan Mahjong “Hongzhong Laizipi (武汉麻将”红中赖子皮”)Wuhan’s own mahjong variant turns the last tile of the wall into a wildcard. A table can take a whole afternoon, which is the point. The social game only; gambling is against the law here. Hubei Afternoon until late, all day at weekends
Table 20 to 50 yuan plus the tea
Some Chinese helps
WatchingWuhan Park Board Games & Chu Opera (武汉公园棋牌/楚剧)Wuhan parks run to a timetable: taiji and choirs at dawn, Chinese chess and songbirds through the morning, square dancing at dusk, and Chu opera amateurs somewhere in between. Hubei All year, early morning and early evening
Free
Some Chinese helps
WatchingXiantao Dingqi (仙桃定七)A card game designed in Xiantao in 2012 and played mostly there, with its own rules for sevens, pots and reversals. Hubei Everyday
Free online, table games locally
Needs the local dialect
You can join inChangsha Mahjong “258 (长沙麻将”258”)Changsha mahjong needs a 2, 5 or 8 as the pair, which is where the 258 pricing in the city’s teahouses comes from. Hunan Afternoon until late
Table and tea, 20 to 50 yuan
Some Chinese helps
You can join inPao Huzi / Zi Pai Character Cards (跑胡子(字牌))Eighty-one long paper cards printed with written numerals, played four to a table with one sitting out, quicker to set up than mahjong. Youxian county lists it as local heritage, and jokes that everyone there is a bearer of it. Hunan Afternoon until late
Tea 5 to 15 yuan, bring your own cards
Needs the local dialect

South China (华南)

What Where When and what it takes
You can join inBig Two Chudadi (锄大地)Big Two takes one deck, four players and about five minutes to learn, which makes it the card game a visitor can actually be dealt into. Guangdong After meals and at weekend gatherings
Free
No Chinese needed
You can join inCantonese Mahjong Non-gambling Entertainment (广东麻将(非赌博娱乐))Cantonese mahjong runs in front rooms and community card rooms, and the rules are local enough that Cantonese helps. The social game only; gambling is illegal. Guangdong Afternoon into the evening; heaviest over the lunar new year
10 to 30 yuan an hour with tea
Needs the local dialect
You can join inLianhua Mountain Kite Flying & Light Show (深圳莲花山放风筝与市民中心灯光秀)Eighty thousand square metres of open hill in central Shenzhen, flown with kites all weekend, and the civic centre light show below it after dark. Guangdong Weekend daytime for kites; the light show at 7, 8 and 9pm
Free; kites sold nearby
No Chinese needed

Being There on the Right Evening

Most of this costs nothing and needs no booking. What it needs is being in the right district at half past six rather than in a restaurant across town. Tell our local team which city and which week, and they will say what is on and where people actually go.

Explore China Tours

Scroll to Top