Everyday Leisure: Teahouses

A pot of tea buys a table for as long as you want it. In Chengdu the water is topped up all afternoon; in Guangzhou the same habit comes with trolleys of dim sum at half past six in the morning.

30 of these, grouped by region. The first line of each entry says whether you can take part or only watch; the last column gives the hours, the cost where there is one, and how much Chinese it takes. Or see all seven kinds.

East China (华东)

What Where When and what it takes
WatchingBig Bowl Tea (合肥老茶馆—金斗驿大碗茶)Big-bowl tea in a Hefei street, drunk while a two-string fiddle plays and comic dialogue runs at the next table. Anhui Daytime into the evening, all year
Cheap, by the bowl
No Chinese needed
Somewhere to sit and talkChaohu Lakeside Sunset Teahouse (巢湖湖畔落日茶铺)Tea shacks along the shore of Chaohu lake where the point is the hour the sun goes down over the water. Anhui Around sunset, spring through autumn
Pay as you order
No Chinese needed
Somewhere to sit and talkTeahouse & Craft Beer Social (合肥老报馆—新月光茶馆与精酿社交)The old provincial newspaper offices in Hefei, now a block of late-opening teahouses and craft beer bars that fill up after work. Anhui Evenings, 6pm to midnight, busiest at weekends
50 to 150 yuan a head
No Chinese needed
WatchingTianxianpei Tea Opera House (天仙配茶戏楼—喝茶听黄梅戏)Huangmei opera performed in the provincial company’s own house in Hefei, sold as a tea seat: you drink through the performance rather than sitting in rows. Anhui Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday evenings, with extra shows over New Year
Ticketed, tea-table seating
No Chinese needed
You can join inPark Public Tea Stalls (厦门”茶桌仔”—公园大众泡茶点)Xiamen runs more than twenty public tea stalls in its parks, priced so that anyone can sit. Bring your own leaf if you prefer. Fujian Late morning to afternoon on dry days; filling up after 8am
About 10 to 30 yuan a table
No Chinese needed
You can join inQuanzhou Daily Life (闽南功夫茶—泉州古城日常)In Quanzhou tea is poured at every counter and in every front room, and a shopkeeper will wave you into a seat. The old city has teahouses, but the habit is wider than the venues. Fujian All day, busiest in the afternoon and evening
Free in the shops, 30 to 100 yuan in a teahouse
No Chinese needed
WatchingShuxu Teahouse (福州评话—舒叙茶馆书场)A clan hall from 1862, now a storytelling house: the wooden block comes down and the tale runs in Fuzhou dialect for the price of the tea. Fujian Evening performances daily, with an afternoon session at 1:30
Tea 10 to 30 yuan, the storytelling is free
Needs the local dialect
WatchingTeahouse Sitting Singing (福州伬艺—茶馆坐唱)Sitting-and-singing at the same Fuzhou teahouse: one or two performers accompany themselves on fiddle or three-string, mostly sung with spoken passages between. Fujian Evenings, alternating with the storytelling
Tea 10 to 30 yuan
Needs the local dialect
You can join inZhangzhou Ancient City Open-air Kungfu Tea (漳州古城归来广场露天功夫茶)Open-air kungfu tea on the square in Zhangzhou’s old city, small cups poured in rounds, with mung bean cakes and glutinous rice sweets to go with them. Fujian After dusk, around 6:30pm, spring through autumn
Pay as you order
No Chinese needed
You can join inOld Street Teahouse (常州/无锡老街茶馆)Canal-side teahouses on old streets in Changzhou and Wuxi, including one in Baijiatang village that has been open for 170 years and still brews around its old seven-eye stove. Jiangsu Late morning to afternoon, busiest at weekends
Tea 10 to 30 yuan, and you can stay half a day
No Chinese needed
You can join inYangzhou Morning Tea (扬州淮扬早茶)Yangzhou’s morning tea is a full sit-down meal: three-diced buns, jade shaomai, thousand-layer cake, shredded tofu in broth, crab-roe soup dumplings, with a pot of local blended tea. Fuchun has been doing it since 1885. Jiangsu 6am to 11am, busiest 7 to 9; queues at weekends
50 to 100 yuan a head
No Chinese needed
You can join inNanchang New-style Teahouses (南昌新式茶馆—民德路/醋巷茶馆)Teahouse clusters on Minde Road and in the Wanshougong quarter of Nanchang, where local storytelling and clapper talk run between the tables. Jiangxi Afternoon into the evening, all year; full on weekdays too
30 to 80 yuan a head
Some Chinese helps
You can join inCommunity Teahouse (上海社区茶馆/老年茶室)Neighbourhood teahouses in older Shanghai districts and in the converted lanes off Yuyuan and Wukang roads, usually with mahjong and cards going at the next table. Shanghai Late morning to afternoon
Tea 5 to 20 yuan
No Chinese needed
You can join inLongjing Tea Mountain Tea Experience (龙井茶山喝茶)Farmhouse teahouses in the five villages that make Longjing, where you can walk the terraces and watch the leaf being pan-fired before you drink it. Zhejiang All year; liveliest in the picking season, March and April; book ahead at weekends
80 to 200 yuan a head with a farmhouse meal
Some Chinese helps
Someone teaches youNingbo Tiantong Old Street Song Dynasty Tea (宁波天童老街宋茶)Song-dynasty whisked tea kept alive in a Ningbo tea merchant’s shop: the bamboo whisk worked until the foam holds, then water painted onto the surface. Some Chinese or an interpreter is needed. Zhejiang Afternoons; check opening times first
100 to 200 yuan a head
Needs the local dialect
You can join inShaoxing Riverside Tea Stall (绍兴河边茶摊)Tea stalls along the water in Shaoxing, a pot and a dish of fennel beans, with the black-awning boats going past. Nobody is performing tea here; it is what the morning is made of. Zhejiang Late morning to afternoon, best in good weather
Tea 10 to 20 yuan for half a day
No Chinese needed

Central China (华中)

What Where When and what it takes
You can join inGucheng Shihua New Chinese Tea House (谷城石花镇新中式茶馆)A newer teahouse in a small town in Hubei, where the draw is brewing tea over a brazier, hanfu to borrow, script-based murder games and green hills out of the window. Hubei Daytime into the evening
50 to 150 yuan a head
Some Chinese helps
You can join inJingzhou Old Tea House (荆州老茶馆)An old-city teahouse at the foot of the Binyang gate tower, known locally for its lotus leaf tea and for the phrase people use about the afternoons spent here. Hubei Daytime into the evening
Table charge 15 to 40 yuan
No Chinese needed
WatchingChangde Hejie Yuanyang Zoumalou (常德河街鸳鸯走马楼)A public performance every afternoon in a preserved Changde courtyard house: silk-string ballads, high-pitched local opera, flower-drum and fisherman’s drum, in rotation. Hunan Every day except Monday, four in the afternoon
Free
No Chinese needed
You can join inDongmaojie Tea House (长沙东茅街茶馆)A 1952 factory floor turned teahouse, running on what locals call 258 pricing. Several thousand people a day come through, and the tea is refilled as long as you sit. Hunan Morning until late; already packed on a weekday morning
Eight yuan for tea, two for a snack
No Chinese needed
WatchingLinxiang Chang’anyi Tea House (临湘长安驿茶馆)Wooden tables in an old-style room in a county town, run on the pattern of tea with opera: you drink while flower-drum performers work the stage. Hunan Daytime into the evening
15 to 40 yuan
Some Chinese helps
WatchingXiangtan Yaowan Tanbao Tea House (湘潭窑湾潭宝茶馆)A 2,000 square metre courtyard of grey tile and timber with four skywells, where flower-drum opera, Hunan opera and newer Chinese-style music take turns on stage. Hunan Daytime into the evening
Table charge 10 to 30 yuan
Some Chinese helps

South China (华南)

What Where When and what it takes
You can join inCantonese Morning Tea Yum Cha (广式早茶”一盅两件”)One pot and two baskets is the formula: you order tea, then dim sum from the trolleys, and stay for two hours. No booking, but the well-known houses have a queue. Guangdong 6:30am to 11:30am; regulars are seated by half past six
50 to 100 yuan a head
No Chinese needed
You can join inChaoshan Kungfu Tea (潮汕工夫茶)Chaoshan brews kungfu tea everywhere, in shops and front rooms, three small cups filled in rotation. Being invited into a home takes knowing someone; the tea shops will pour for anyone. Guangdong From first thing in the morning until late
30 to 80 yuan in a tea shop
Needs the local dialect
You can join inGarden Stroll (顺德”饮早茶+逛园林”)Morning tea in Shunde, then a walk through the Qinghui garden. Shunde holds a UNESCO listing for its cooking. Guangdong Weekend mornings, with the garden afterwards
Tea 50 to 80 yuan a head, garden ticket extra
No Chinese needed
You can join inWuzhou Arcade City Morning Tea & Liubao Tea (梧州骑楼城早茶与六堡茶)Wuzhou’s arcade streets run on three sittings a day, and the local dark tea, Liubao, is what fills the covered bowls between them. Guangxi Morning tea from early; Liubao tea and cards in the afternoon; opera at night
30 to 60 yuan a head for morning tea
No Chinese needed
WatchingWuzhou Tea & Opera Night (梧州”茶戏融合”夜茶听粤剧)Cantonese opera and Liubao tea in the same room, which is Wuzhou’s own combination rather than a general southern one. Guangxi Evenings, with regular shows during the arcade-city season
Order tea and the show is included
Some Chinese helps
You can join inHainan “Laoba Tea” Dad’s Tea (海南老爸茶)Haikou’s old dad tea is an all-day habit rather than a meal: enamel cups, wooden chairs, trolleys of pastries, and tea by the pot for the price of a coffee. Hainan 6am to 11am, and 2pm to 6pm; full all weekend
20 to 50 yuan a head
No Chinese needed

Southwest China (西南)

What Where When and what it takes
You can join inChengdu Teahouse (Heming Teahouse / Gaiwan Tea / Ear Cleaning) (成都茶馆(鹤鸣茶社/盖碗茶/掏耳朵))The covered bowl arrives in three parts and the water is topped up all afternoon with nobody hurrying you out. Ear cleaning and the long-spouted pouring are charged separately. Sichuan All year, 7am to 10pm; quietest late morning and mid-afternoon
15 to 30 yuan for the tea, 40 for an ear cleaning
No Chinese needed
You can join inLhasa Sweet Tea House (拉萨甜茶馆)Sweet tea houses are where Lhasa sits and talks: black tea boiled with milk and sugar, a yuan a glass and refilled indefinitely, usually with a bowl of Tibetan noodles beside it. Tibet All year, 7am to 7pm
10 to 20 yuan a head
No Chinese needed

Being There on the Right Evening

Most of this costs nothing and needs no booking. What it needs is being in the right district at half past six rather than in a restaurant across town. Tell our local team which city and which week, and they will say what is on and where people actually go.

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